MFW SS2020
Larmoiredelana -
1- Peter Pilotto

Beach to Ballroom type of collection this Spring 2020 for Peter Pilotto, London designers showcased handbags and men’s wear. “It came from a really natural place of having our girls’ boyfriends want to wear our clothes, and being male designers and wanting to be able to try them and feel what’s right ourselves,” said Pilotto. Usually the designers share more of their cocktail wear but in Milan the duo wanted to share more of day wear. From tropical and silk printed suits to kimonos having a belt bag. Pajama sets are still trending and making it look like party ready with some high heels. Printed corsets are back, over and below the top. There were a lot of stripes and tie dye outfits and hats + crushed denim jeans and jackets. The duo designers kept things sporty feminine in color palette, silhouettes and patterns and it was definitely shown on the runway with models wearing a mix of tie dye and tropical print of split complementary scheme of an in-balanced asymmetrical dress. The handbags aligned from backpacks to double belt bags, totes and leather bags.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2- Max Mara

Fifty shades of grey kicked off the runway of Spring/Summer 2020 collection in Milan, then shifted into soft lilac and blues and later on bursted into pastel-toned rainbow. This collection combined the boundaries of femininity and masculinity with a frisky show. Max Mara is known for their calm colors. The fashion designer presented a colorful collection that broke down the typical classic style. The feminine shapes of tailoring were twisted to the masculine tailoring by adding over sized shirts with a tie, pockets and knee high socks. Tailored classic paisley prints on dresses and tops matched with blazers and coats. There were also silk flowy ruffled skirts and dresses. The designs looked like they were super comfy and easy to wear. Ending the runway with asymmetric silk yellow pastel dress with a hat, it made me daydream for few minutes already about next summer!

 

3- Prada

Creative director Miuccia Prada Spring/Summer 2020 collection in Milan integrated historical designs from the past to create a new office chic wear but modern with details. She chooses style over Fashion. According to the show’s notes “It is, fundamentally, a collection about the power of women over clothing, and style over fashion.” Prada also said “Of course, I am interested in why people buy things, but I can only listen so much to the consumer because we have so many different types who like our company so you cannot listen to everyone.” The first look modeled by Freja Beha Erichsen, was pared down of paper thin sheer collared knit long-sleeved shirt, linen skirt and loafer heels. Textures were mixed and layered. Tailored jackets, knee length skirts in pencil shapes or pleated, embroidered leather and many graphic details that managed to be soft. The brand has always been known for always being one step ahead of the trends and turned this collection into a classic design instead. The overlook feel of the collection was looks of something different however it managed to be attractive and alluring.

 

4- Fendi

Silvia Venturini Fendi’s first solo RTW Spring/Summer 2020 collection was inspired by a warm summer evenings (sunsets). Colors full of soft pinks, warm oranges and bold yellows. She said “The summer and sunny days put me in a such a different mood, more open to experiences, and I feel more freedom. When summer gets closer, my state of mind changes.” Fendi was the first one who launched the famous nostalgic Baguette bag back in 1997 adorned with a double F logo and it is one of my favorite bags that I have in my closet! But this spring collection has new accessories to share with us. Multi Colored groovy retro vibe floral prints paired with tights, cool 70’s sequined dresses, sheer tops, padded mini skirts and coats. There were colorful fur and quilted coats in gingham and pretty pastels, dark khaki style garments. The collection was full of freedom and the opportunity of new experiments.

5- Gucci

For this Spring/Summer 2020 collection Alessandro Michele kickstarted the runway 70’s sexy feeling. This season’s venue was much smaller than last season. The first 21 looks, models wore ivory blank looks standing barefoot and sometimes with plain sandals on the moving walkway. “It was to represent how through fashion, power is exercised over life, to eliminate self expression. This power prescribes social norms, classifying and curbing identity. These clothes were a statement for the fashion show and will not be sold.”

The collection was full of patterns and silhouettes on models. First one to open the runway was  Varya B wearing a black jumpsuit, sheer from the top freeing the nipples added a black choker attached on it a giant sparkly butterfly brooch and some red fishnets socks with black high heels. This looked wowed most of the crowd including me. Big round chained eyeglasses that asked for everyone’s attention with beanies, square neck tops and dresses. Printed suits, polka dot jumpsuits and arm gloves. The clothes were simpler than last season.

6- GCDS

This Spring/Summer 2020 was full of so many inspirations, it was on another level and a lot to take in. Creative director Giuliano Calza included a fascinating world of Kawaii and tropical paradise of Hawaii island. Sport inspired options matching with shark teeth trimmed shades  and Hello Kitty shaped handbags. This collection was a summertime seduction, a good balance between suspense and humour. Starting with two piece bikini models wearing over the knee boots with it and a hat. There were ruffled sheer jumpsuits, swimsuits with high heels, matching printed sets of Kawaii who is a sugar coated character.

What were your top 3 favorite collections this SS2020?

By Leen Lakkis – Project Coordinator

 



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